Bulgaria's elegant and relaxed capital constantly throws up surprises. Whether it's stumbling upon the ruins of a Roman theater in the lobby of a luxury hotel, dining on superb Lebanese cuisine, or sifting through antiques at a flea market, Sofia has delights and distractions aplenty.
It also has plenty of history on offer. From its pre-Roman origins through periods as an Imperial outpost, a medieval Byzantine metropolis, an Ottoman center, and a key capital behind the Iron Curtain, Sofia has been many things, and has a wealth of historical attractions from every era.
Add in a ski resort within a half an hour of the city center, tens of heated open air swimming pools across the city, and a packed schedule of arts and music events, and you have a truly exceptional Eastern European destination.
Sofia's historical jewels are obvious. When you wander around town, you'll be astonished by architectural masterworks like Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, the UNESCO-listed Boyana Church, and the Church of Sveti Sedmochislenitsi. Many used to serve as mosques, and Byzantine remains are everywhere.
Museum fans never leave Sofia disappointed. The National Archaeological Institute is a great place to start, with artifacts dating back to the 4th century BC, and the Sofia History Museum makes a great chaser. After that, the Museum of Socialist Art is a must-see, while Muzeiko offers child-friendly science-themed exhibits.
Sofia is one of the cultural hubs of the entire Balkan region. From the graceful performances during Sofia Dance Week and the full-on musical assault of Sofia Rocks, to the refined, intellectual pleasures of One Architecture Week, the city hosts events of all kinds.
How many major world cities can boast a ski resort inside the city limits? Not many, but Sofia can. The city is overlooked by the bulk of Mount Vitosha, which, perhaps not unsurprisingly given its convenient location, is Bulgaria's most popular ski resort.
For many visitors, Sofia remains a name from an era of closed borders and international tension. These days, you can learn all about the city's Communist past at the Museum of Socialist Art, take walking tours of the city as it was in the 1950s, and hunt for Communist-era souvenirs at flea markets like Bitaka.
Locals will tell you that the best time to go is definitely between May and September (the Bulgarian summer, more or less). Try May or early June for fine weather and smaller crowds. High summer is still fine, and you can cool off in the city's open air pools, while winter makes skiing in Vitosha another possibility.
Sofia Airport (SOF) is around six miles east of the city center, but it doesn't have any direct connections to North America, so you'll probably need to transfer via France, the UK, or Germany. When you touch down, the best route into town is the subway from Terminal 2 (лв1.60 for a single). Buses cost the same amount, so aren't usually the preferred option. If you choose to take a taxi, expect to pay around лв15 for the journey.
Sofia is a major international train destination, with direct connections to cities like Berlin, Istanbul, and Moscow. The main station is around a mile north of the city center but is on the subway network, so getting to downtown hotels won't be an issue.
If you are driving to Sofia from Istanbul, take the Turkish E80 highway, which then becomes Bulgaria's A4, then switch onto the A1 at Parvomay. The A1 also runs to the capital from Black Sea resorts. If you are coming from Belgrade, take Serbia's E-75, then change to the E-80 at Nis, which runs across the border straight to Sofia.
Sofia has excellent intercity and international bus connections thanks to companies like Eurolines and MATPU, and you can purchase cheap bus tickets from European cities like Belgrade, Berlin, or Paris. All international services get into the Central Bus Station, right next to the train station.
Sofia offers a mixture of elegant historical hotels (not all of them in peak condition) and ultra-modern luxury options, with plenty of hostels and guesthouses as well. Some of the finest hotels in town include the Crystal Palace Boutique Hotel, the 5-star Sense Hotel, and the Sofia Hotel Balkan, which has an on-site spa and sauna.
Center - Sofia's city center is compact and stuffed with sights and attractions. Within Vasil Levski Boulevard, you'll discover enchanting churches, the Grand Cathedral, the National Art Gallery, and more offbeat places like the Central Mineral Baths - the ideal spot for a cut-price therapeutic spa session.
Lozenets - just south of the city center, Lozenets is one of the city's greenest, most relaxed areas. That might be something to do with the thousands of students in the neighborhood, or the expanse of Boris Garden. Well served by subway stops, it's a handy, safe base to explore the rest of the town.
Izgrev - on the other side of the Boris Garden you'll find Izgrev (or "Sunrise" in Bulgarian). Bulgaria's media hub and long a popular area with artists, modern Izgrev is one of the most upmarket neighborhoods in the city.
The crown jewel of Sofia's public transportation network is the city's subway system, but there are also buses, and trams buzzing around every neighborhood. However you travel, there's a fixed single fare of just лв1.60, and you can purchase 10 journeys for лв12.
Taxis in Sofia are cheap and easy to spot with their yellow signs. The meter drop will be between лв0.60 and лв0.90, with a charge of around лв1.40 per mile after that, and most inner-city journeys will come to about лв10.
Renting a car is a great way for tourists to venture into the mountains (and very handy if you are hiring ski equipment). Rental companies in the city center include Hertz, Naycar, and AutoJet, with plenty more at the airport. Rates shouldn't be high, at around лв18 per day.
Sofia has its share of luxury shopping malls, but the place to head for high-end window shopping is the Vitosha Boulevard, where you'll discover fashion stores like Max Mara or Takeshy Kurosawa, jewelry brands like Swarovski, and no shortage of cafes. A grittier shopping experience can be enjoyed at flea markets like Zhenski Pazar, which may be the largest open air market in Europe.
If you need to shop for groceries and other essentials, the best places to head in Sofia are supermarkets like Gala, Billa, or the Carrefour on boulevard Tsarigradsko Shosse. The cost of living is very cheap, with a gallon of milk costing about лв7.50.
Bulgarian food is a delightful fusion of Turkish kebabs and Eastern European potato-based dishes, with no end of mouth-watering meat-based dishes. Some of the best places to try authentic Bulgarian cuisine are Mehana Karajata (where you may be serenaded by folk troupes) and Hadjidraganov's Houses. However, international dishes are well represented too, with excellent pizza options like Godzilla and pasta joints like the Spaghetti Kitchen. Expect a high-end meal to cost no more than лв15 per head.